Beginner's guide to bouldering in 2022

You might be forgiven for believing that bouldering is just another way to say “rock climbing”, but it’s definitely not. Bouldering as a sport may have started as a form of climbing back when rock climbing as a whole was just starting out as its own sport in the late 1800s, but nowadays, bouldering is considered its own discipline within the world of climbing.

In recent years, bouldering is fast becoming the preferred climbing sport, especially for those new to anything related to climbing. It has quite an easy learning curve but can be both mentally and physically more challenging than rock climbing. So, what exactly is bouldering? We’ll answer that question and more in our all-encompassing bouldering for beginners guide, plus give you some pointers on how to get started.

What is bouldering?

In a nutshell, bouldering is a type of free climbing done specifically on boulders – both natural and artificial – or even short cliffs. Free climbing, as a whole, is a form of climbing without the use of assistive climbing equipment like harnesses and ropes. This, and bouldering by extension, has the climber relying solely on their physical strength to take themselves across various grades of problems.

When compared to a traditional climbing route, which uses ropes, a boulder problem consists of a series of technical climbing moves that takes boulderers through one hold to the next. The ability to balance, use force, and move freely are all essential for solving these boulder problems. While problems need greater technical endurance, they are substantially shorter than a roped climbing route.

Bouldering as a discipline of climbing is fairly modern in the overall history of rock climbing. Although bouldering had been first recorded sometime in the early 1800s as a way for climbers to practice before tackling larger ascents, it wasn’t until the late 1950s that it became its own sport. Boulderers can thank the American mathematician John Gill, who was responsible for moving the sport away from the climbing traditions of reaching a summit to, instead, navigating a set of problems across a rock face. Gill was also responsible for the introduction of chalk within the world of climbing and, by extension, bouldering.

As the sport grew in popularity in the years since, several more tools were added to a boulderer’s repertoire – climbing shoes and crash pads. We’ll discuss the tools every boulderer needs in their arsenal, including the part that climbing shoes and crash pads play, in a later section of this article – all you need to know before you get into beginner bouldering. Up to this day, hundreds, if not thousands, of bouldering spots have been developed around the world, and those without easy access to natural boulders could then enjoy the sport using indoor climbing facilities.

Bouldering vs rock climbing

The main distinction between bouldering and rock climbing as separate sports is their respective objectives. Where rock climbing focuses on going from the ground to a summit through climbing – be it the top of a cliffside or the peak of a mountain – bouldering requires navigating a set of holds without necessarily needing to ascend to the top of the boulder. 

Typically, rock climbing also utilises various equipment like ropes and belays to assist with their ascent. Bouldering, however, doesn’t use any type of assistive equipment aside from those strictly for safety purposes. If you’re keen on seeing what rock climbing is all about, read up on our beginners’ guide to rock climbing.

Both climbing sports were recently introduced as a single Olympic sport during the most recent Summer Olympic Games held in Tokyo, Japan, under the banner of “sport climbing”. Up until the conclusion of those Summer Olympics, sport climbing is the combination of bouldering, lead climbing and speed climbing, with Olympic climbers needing to tackle all three disciplines to qualify for medal contention. This was met with a lot of scrutiny from the climbing community, but the Olympic Committee only allowed the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) one medalled sport for the 2020 Olympics.

Thankfully, starting with the 2024 Olympics, the IFSC has been allowed two medalled contests – of which they will separate speed climbing into its own event. Further down the line, the IFSC hopes that all three climbing disciplines will have their own events at the Olympics, which may take a while. But until then, the Federation continues to host worldwide championships across lead climbing, speed climbing, and, most importantly, bouldering – most of which you can enjoy on the IFSC YouTube channel!

Different types of bouldering

It might seem like bouldering is just bouldering – climbing up and around various boulders  – there are actually a few types of bouldering that every bouldering beginner should know about. Unlike rock climbing, which has a whopping eight different styles of climbing, there are only three types of bouldering. For most beginner boulderers, only two of these bouldering types will most likely play a part in helping you gain more experience in the sport.

Indoor bouldering

Source: WhatsOn.ae

One thing that boulderers are grateful for is the existence of indoor climbing gyms because it allows boulderers to do their thing all year long, rain or shine. Alongside rock climbing walls, most climbing gyms also feature simulated bouldering problems with the use of wooden panels, polymer cement panels, concrete shells, or precast moulds of actual rock walls. And just like rock climbing walls, plastic holds are made and bolted into those walls to create various problems.

Similar to indoor rock climbing, those holds tend to be multicoloured. The different colours signal different problems of varying difficulty, and it’s highly recommended that you stick to holds of a single colour. It’s normally recommended that bouldering beginners start out their journeys at indoor climbing gyms because these predetermined, colour-coded problems make it easier to get used to the sport of bouldering. Bouldering inside also needs only climbing shoes at the bare minimum, and a chalk bag, chalk, a brush, and climbing shoes at the most.

Outdoor bouldering

Source: RootsRated

Outdoor bouldering is exactly as advertised. The original way to boulder is outdoor bouldering, where boulderers face up against a short cliff or a large boulder fitted with natural problems to solve. It’s a great way to enjoy bouldering while also getting some much-needed fresh air.

Boulder issues vary greatly in their difficulties depending on the type of rock being climbed. Sandstone rocks, on the one hand, are characterised by their steep overhangs and frequent horizontal breaks, while granite exhibits extensive cracks and slabs. Bouldering is also done on limestone and volcanic rock, which feature their own unique problems for boulderers to solve.

Highball bouldering

Climbing on high, challenging, long, and tall boulders is known as "highball bouldering". Climbers use the same equipment as in traditional bouldering despite them having to scale house-sized rocks that put their strength, agility, and concentration to the test. Then, just like with indoor and outdoor bouldering, once a boulderer solves a problem, they fall into a crash pad set below the boulder. The only difference is that this is a much higher fall compared to other forms of bouldering.

Like most aspects of climbing, highballing can be interpreted in a variety of ways. Most climbers consider problems over 4.5m (15 ft) to be highballs, while problems as high as 10.5m (35 ft) are considered free soloing. There is definitely a fine line between what’s still considered a boulder and what would be a cliff, but that hasn’t deterred boulderers from going highball bouldering!

What are bouldering grades? A quick look

During your research into bouldering for beginners, you might have come across the term “bouldering grades” or “boulder grades” across varying indoor climbing gyms and outdoor boulders. Honestly, any veteran boulderer would tell bouldering beginners not to take these grades too seriously. But what are they, really? 

In a nutshell, bouldering grades are the same used for regular rock climbing. These grades help give climbers a general idea of how difficult a climb will be – or how difficult the bouldering problems are. As a bouldering beginner, the only one you should pay attention to is anything of “beginner” level, up until you’ve become more confident in your bouldering abilities. 

The reason why veteran climbers would suggest that these grades shouldn’t be taken seriously by beginner boulderers is that there is no solid consensus on what the grades are in technical terms. Plus, there are two types of boulder grading systems that are used in different parts of the world – the Hueco Scale (known simply as the “V Scale”) and the Fontainebleau Scale (or the “Font Scale”).

Hueco Scale

The V Scale is most commonly used by boulderers in North America and Oceania, with the nickname coming from the way that boulders are graded – using the letter “V”, followed by a digit. Grades start at V0 and then continue onwards – with no consensus on what the hardest grade is. Right now, the highest (and therefore the hardest) boulder problems are Daniel Woods’ “Return of the Sleepwalker” and Nalle Hukkataival’s “Burden of Dreams”, with both problems holding the proposed grade of V17. Neither problem has been successfully repeated since.

Bouldering novices should begin their climbing careers by tackling challenges rated V0 through V2 in difficulty. As you gain more knowledge and experience, you will have the opportunity to further your career. Those boulderers who are on the verge of solving problems with grades in the double digits are considered to be elite climbers.

Fontainebleau Scale

Boulderers in Europe and Asia (minus Estonia, China and South East Asia) use the Font Scale to grade their problems. Much like the V Scale, the Font Scale is open-ended. However, it relies on digits – starting from 1 – and will add the letters A to C to boulders graded 6 and higher. Problems can be further subdivided by affixing a plus to the end of a grade – with boulders graded 8C+ being more difficult than that graded 8C, for example. It should be noted that technically, there are rarely any boulders that hold a grade lower than 3, so bouldering beginners should be on the lookout for those between 3 and 5+.

Both the V Scale and Font Scale can be roughly translated from one to the other. Using the “Return of the Sleepwalker” and “Burden of Dreams” examples from before, both boulder problems would be considered 9A when using the Font Scale. As such, 9A is currently the highest grade given to boulder problems.

How to start bouldering

The best way to get started with bouldering for beginners is to look for the closest indoor climbing gym near you! Indoor climbing is the easiest way to start bouldering as you’d get easier access to beginner problems and, better yet, bouldering instructors who would be more than happy to help take you through all you need to know to get started with bouldering. Keep going to bouldering classes, and you’ll find yourself improving in no time at all.

Interested in starting bouldering in the great outdoors? Not to worry because that’s definitely a possibility – and a great way to get yourself some fresh air. If you’re much more keen on getting on trying out bouldering outdoors alongside like-minded people (or even your friends), you should consider booking an outdoor bouldering adventure. Sometimes you just need to get right into it before you know whether you’ll like it!

What gear do I need for bouldering? 

Earlier, we mentioned that bouldering requires minimal equipment, and we meant it. The ease of getting into bouldering and the reduced equipment requirements are one of the reasons why it quickly became the favourite climbing sport – especially for climbing beginners. However, as a beginner, you don’t really need to worry about investing in these just yet.

If you’re a bouldering beginner, you don’t need to worry about getting this list of things (except perhaps #2). Most indoor climbing gyms would have rental equipment that you can use as you get yourself used to the sport and decide whether you like it or not. If you’re going out on a bouldering trip with a reputable outdoor adventure provider, they would also have equipment for you to use.

But, just so you’re aware of the equipment you’ll be using to boulder (and what you’ll need to invest in when the bouldering bug bites), here’s a short list of a boulderer’s repertoire:

1. Climbing shoes

Although boulderers are more than welcome to climb barefoot – and some do – climbing shoes are a rather helpful tool for bouldering, especially beginner bouldering. Climbing shoes, also used by rock climbers, help provide an extra level of traction, allowing your feet to grip the rock better. They also make it easier to distribute your body weight evenly across your toes and prevent your feet from slipping off of slick grips. Plus, they’ll protect your feet from getting too calloused.

However, if you’ve got unusually sized feet (as in, it’s hard for you to find sizes when getting rentals), then we’d highly recommend that you get an affordable pair of beginner climbing shoes to start with. As a bouldering beginner, it’ll be a much more enjoyable experience when your feet are protected and comfortable – and the right-sized climbing shoes will definitely do that. When you decide that climbing is definitely for you, you could look into higher-quality stuff that will last you many bouldering trips!

2. Comfy clothes

These are perhaps the most important equipment you need as a boulderer. Bouldering is a strenuous sport, and your body should be comfortable while you do it. And since you can expect to be stretching your body in all sorts of ways to reach various holds, consider flexible clothes, too. The best clothing that you can wear while bouldering are loose, comfortable clothes that allow your body to breathe and stretch while you go from hold to hold.

For maximum mobility and comfort when bouldering, most people opt for shorts, loose pants, or leggings and pair them with a loose t-shirt or a tank top. If you're a woman, you can get by with a loose t-shirt and a sports bra – which is probably a combination that you already own! The best fabrics to use are those that are light, airy, and adaptable. If you’re going bouldering outdoors, keep in mind that you’ll most definitely suffer some scraps and scratches if you’re bouldering with shorts on since you’d be going up against the hard rock. Make the right decision for you for the bouldering situation that you’ll be in!

3. Chalk

Regardless of whether you’re a boulder or a rock climber, chalk and a chalk bag will be your best friends. Chalk bags will hold a large amount of grounded chalk, which will be crucial to keeping your hands dry as you make your way through problems. Climbers use chalk to improve their grip on the rock by soaking up moisture from their hands and fingers. As we all know, our hands are prone to getting sweaty, but sweat and moisture are truly the enemies of bouldering and climbing in general. This is why you’ll never see climbers out in the rain!

Modern-day climbers also have access to what is known as “liquid chalk”. When compared to traditional dried chalk, liquid chalk is much more eco-friendly and is an excellent option in today's congested climbing gyms and crags. Liquid chalk is a fantastic way to ascend without leaving any dust in the air or residue on the rock, making it ideal for the ever-increasing number of climbers who visit crags each year.

4. Crash pad

If you go to an indoor climbing gym, you might notice that the bottom of each climbing structure – whether for rock climbing or bouldering – will be surrounded by massive cushions. These are called “crash pads” and are highly important for the safety of climbers, especially boulderers. Bouldering pads, crash pads, and mats all have the same function: to cushion the climber from the ground in the event of a fall.

However, these don’t exist when you’re bouldering outdoors, which is why you’ll need to bring your own portable crash or bouldering pad with you. You might feel like it’s a bit of a fuss to drag this big, thick pad around with you while you’re out and about looking for boulders to climb, but they are absolutely vital for a boulderer’s safety. It’s a habit for boulderers to simply fall after they’ve solved a problem, and these crash pads are crucial to making sure that you don’t hurt yourself doing so.

Bouldering Tips for Beginners

If you've made it this far in our bouldering for beginners guide, we hope it means that your interest in this extremely addicting sport is stronger than it has ever been. This is exactly the kind of thing that makes our day! Bouldering is a fantastic activity for anyone who is looking for a sport that will challenge them both mentally and physically; this is perhaps why it is such an addicting form of sport.

Now, before you pick up the phone and book an introductory lesson at your local climbing gym, or gather up a few keen friends to try bouldering outdoors, we’ve got a few bouldering for beginners tips for you. These tips are to help you make the most out of your beginner bouldering experience and hopefully keep you coming back for more!

1. Take it slow

The saying “slow and steady beats the race” can’t be truer for bouldering – unless you’re a competing athlete, of course. As a bouldering beginner, you need to take your time with getting used to all the sorts of grips and positions that you’ll have to put yourself into to get from hold to hold. Taking it slow allows you and your body to get used to it all, and it allows you to learn them much better than if you were impatient.

Plus, taking things at a more leisurely pace when bouldering for the first time is also highly important for your safety. One false move, and you’ll be slipping and falling into a crash pad for sure. Although we recommend that you embrace falling as part of the overall bouldering experience, taking it slow could have taken you further into the problem instead of needing to fall and start another attempt. Plus, rushing through a bouldering attempt, especially as a bouldering beginner, is an excellent way to come out of your session with a lot more bumps and bruises than necessary!

2. Use your legs

When it comes to climbing in general, you might think that the hands and arms are the most important climbing tools, but bouldering is quite different. Your legs are just as important to the problem-solving process as your arms, even if your arms are going to be required at all times. Bouldering is able to be the incredible full-body workout that it is because your feet and legs are just as important as your hands and arms.

Your legs are also the strongest part of your body, and it also is able to hold a lot more weight compared to your arms. A great bouldering for beginners tip is to think of bouldering as also a series of “standing up” movements rather than simply pulling yourself from hold to hold. Keeping your legs strong is as crucial as maintaining strength in your arms. But don’t forget your core, which helps keep it all together

3. Find a partner

While you can certainly go bouldering on your own, it’s an experience that’s best shared with others. Reach out to your friends to see if anyone else would be keen on starting out bouldering with you. Otherwise, you’ll most definitely meet like-minded people while you’re out bouldering – whether at an indoor climbing gym or when out on an outdoor bouldering trip. Don’t be afraid to exchange numbers and keep in touch! 

Boulderers are an incredibly friendly and helpful bunch who would be more than happy to support you in your bouldering journey. Regardless of whether you’re out by the rocks or heading to your local climbing gym, there’ll be experienced boulderers about. So, even if you’re not able to find other beginner boulderers, more senior boulderers would be more likely than not to be keen on showing you the ropes (or lack of!).

4. Don’t be afraid to fall

Falling and bouldering are part and parcel of the experience. While you definitely should expect to fall a lot while starting out with beginner bouldering, falling is also important at the end. Once a boulderer is done solving a problem, don’t be surprised if you just see them fall back into a crash pad below rather than retrace their steps! It’s all a part of the overall bouldering journey.

Learning how to fall correctly is vital to preventing injuries. You'll be upside down, on your side, and everywhere in between as you attempt bouldering's physically demanding moves. It's important to consider where you'd land if you fell from a variety of actions, as every fall is unique, interestingly enough. Go with the flow of the fall, keep your body loose but alert, and avoid absorbing impact with your arms as much as possible.

5. Leave no trace

Regardless of whether you’re bouldering outdoors or indoors, the motto “leave no trace” is ever important. When outdoors, keeping things clean is not just respectful for other boulderers around you and those that will come after, but it is respectful to Mother Nature, too. Rubbish is a definite eyesore, but if you don’t clean up after yourself, you might cause direct harm to the natural environment surrounding the boulder – especially since nature is a sensitive ecosystem.

If you’re bouldering at an indoor climbing gym, keeping the climbing area clear is important so that no one gets hurt. Imagine falling after completing a rather difficult problem, only to step onto someone’s water bottle and twist your ankle, therefore injuring yourself. So consider that fact whenever you want to take your water bottle onto the mat! Not only does keeping the climbing area clear keep others safe, but it helps keep you safe, too, which allows everyone to enjoy an injury- and stress-free bouldering experience.

6. Don’t take things (too) seriously

Although bouldering is most definitely a serious sport, you shouldn’t take things too seriously as a bouldering beginner. It might be tempting to go and challenge yourself early on in your bouldering experience, but you really shouldn’t. As we said earlier, there are a lot of aspects to bouldering that your body needs to get used to – taking it slow is key and enjoying yourself throughout the process is even more important.

Also, taking things too seriously will suck the fun out of your bouldering experience – which is something we definitely do not recommend! Smile, laugh, and do both every time you make a mistake and fall into a crash pad. Converse with your fellow boulderers and cheer each other on. Enjoying your bouldering experience, especially as a bouldering beginner, is the best way to keep motivated and, hopefully, keep you wanting more.

Conclusion

Bouldering is considered an extremely challenging sport, not just for the body but for the mind, as well. Navigating the various problems that are available upon a rock face or an indoor climbing gym takes mental calculations both before and during a bouldering attempt. Then, solving those boulder problems takes immense physical strength, endurance and flexibility. But, despite this, bouldering is an amazing, fun sport that is gaining popularity by the day, and we highly recommend that everyone give it a go at least once in their lifetimes.

If you’re interested in picking up bouldering or even just trying it for the first time, definitely consider doing outdoor bouldering. Not only does it get you right into the root of this amazing sport, but it also gives you the opportunity to connect (or reconnect) with Mother Nature in a unique way. 

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